For those whose antennae are not yet tuned to the next wave, emu (pronounced EE-myoo) are large flightless birds native to Australia. They look like dinosaur rejects and taste like heaven.

The taste, and the fact that emu and its cousin the ostrich are low in fat, low in cholesterol and high in protein and iron are encouraging producers, and a so-far narrow market of health-conscious gourmands, to consider these members of the ratite family the red meat for the 90s.

Beuchert, who is raising 60-odd emu on a few acres of her Mount Airy, Md., farm, and who is about to make her next convert, explains the techniques of preparing emu fillet, a deep red-colored meat with no external fat or fat marbling. Hot and fast, that’s how you should cook it. It just takes a few minutes, she says. Chefs like to use sauces they’d use on venison, light, sweet sauces.

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How does it taste?

Absolutely delicious. It is tender enough to cut with a fork, and full of flavor.